Do you know what the loft of your driver is? Do you know if it’s the correct loft for your golf game?

Loft is kind of a misunderstood concept in the game of golf, and we are here to clear that up. Most modern golf drivers have an adjustable loft, therefore making it easier to fine-tune the performance that you need.

Whether you are a beginner or a more accomplished player, you will still need to understand what loft in the driver is and how it will impact your golf game.

What is The Loft on a Driver?

The loft is the angle of the clubface of a driver. Most drivers have a loft between 8 and 13 degrees. The 8 degree driver will have a much lower launch than the 13 degrees, and it will also impact overall distance and forgiveness.

Many players think that the loft on the driver will impact only the launch angle of your golf shot, but there is quite a bit more to it than this.

How Driver Loft Affects Your Ball Flight

The interesting thing about the loft of your driver is that it is not just about how high you hit the golf ball. In addition, the loft will help you with distance, accuracy, and forgiveness.

Distance

The total distance of the golf shot is impacted by the club’s loft. One of the myths of the game is that when you can keep the ball lower, you will get more distance. For some golfers, a lower lofted driver does maximize distance, but that is more about their path and their speed than the driver.

Many professional golfers can hit a driver with 8 degrees of loft and get it to fly 300 or more yards. When you watch the ball flight of this drive, it is still quite high. The higher lofted shot allows the ball to stay in the air for quite some time. The air provides less resistance than the ground.

However, slower swing speed players often struggle to get the distance they need with the lower lofted driver. The lower a loft gets on a golf club, the harder it is to get the ball up off the ground.

High lofted drivers that are 11 or 12 degrees offer great distance for the slower swing speed players.

Forgiveness

In addition to golf driver loft impacting distance, it will also impact forgiveness. The forgiveness of a golf driver is considerably higher when it has a higher loft. The higher the loft, the easier it is to get the ball straight down the fairway.

You may be wondering why golfers don’t want to use higher lofted drivers all the time.

The reason here is that for certain swing speeds, you will eventually hit the ball so high that it costs you the distance.

Golfers need to find that perfect combination of loft and launch angle to ensure maximum distance. Luckily with modern fitting equipment, this is easier than it ever has been.

I have always played with a 10.5 degree driver. Most recently, I tried to adjust the loft down to 9.5 to see if it would give me a more piercing ball flight, something that I thought would be helpful.

The ball flight was more like what I thought I needed, but the total distance from my golf shot was lacking. This just further proves the point that the best loft is the one that works the best for your speed and your angle of attack to the golf ball. For me, that is 10.5 degrees of loft.

Accuracy

Forgiveness and accuracy can go hand in hand. When golf drivers are the right loft for your swing speed, you should have an easier time controlling them. For instance, a player may find that with an 11 degree driver, they can be more accurate than they can be with a 10 degree driver.

The way to fine-tune this is to test your accuracy while setting the club to several different lofts.

You will quickly be able to see that at certain lofts, the slice and hook start to come out. The club feels considerably less forgiving, and your dispersion rates increase. Better players can hit their drives within a few yards of a target.

I found that the difference between swinging a 9 degree driver and a 10.5 was enough to make the sport incredibly frustrating!

How Much Difference Even 1 Degree of Loft Change Can Make on a Driver

When I’ve tested the difference that one degree of loft change makes on a driver, I’ve found the results to be within 3 to 5 yards. Where you really see the difference is when a player who was using a 12 degree driver switches to a 10 degree driver.

If you are not careful about this, you could see differences of up to 10 yards, which significantly impacts the approach shot you will have to the green.

PGA Tour players will tell you that in addition to the difference that loft makes in their shots, it is also crucial to consider the shaft in the club. The shaft can increase launch, have an impact on spin rates, and even make it so that you have a faster swing speed.

Is a Higher Loft Driver Better?

A higher lofted driver is almost always better for a golfer with a slower swing speed. When you use a higher lofted driver, the ball will stay in the air considerably longer. With a golf ball that has plenty of time in the air, you almost always see more distance.

However, if you are a fast-swinging golfer that has a steep angle of attack, the higher launch angle can create problems in your game.

You may notice that the ball goes too high, and when it lands, there is almost no forward roll. This is where you will need to work on lowering the ball flight a bit by adjusting the loft or the angle of attack.

How to Figure Out What Loft You Should Be Using on Your Driver

Now that you can see how important it is to have the right loft in your golf driver, let’s take a look at a few ways you can determine if your golf driver loft is correct.

Go to a Golf Club Fitting

A golf club fitting is a great way to narrow down which golf club driver loft could be best for your golf game. When you go to a fitting, you will work with a professional that gives you information on the perfect angle of attack and the way that impacts the actual loft of the club.

With a golf club fitting, you will tap into some great technology but also the advice of a fitting professional that understands the science of the game.

I like to go for golf club fittings where I can see the tee shot. Even though simulators are incredibly accurate, there is something about seeing the complete ball flight that makes it easier to pick the proper loft for the driver.

Get a Portable Launch Monitor

If you don’t want to go for a fitting, you can always conduct your own! Portable or personal golf launch monitors have come a long way and are now more affordable than ever. For less than $500, you can hit golf balls on the range and get some accurate information about the shots you are hitting.

Portable launch monitors may give you less information than you get during a complete custom fitting, but this is a great place to start.

I like to hit 5 shots with a certain loft and collect measurements, and then switch to another loft and collect some more data. You will quickly be able to see which golf club is the one that could work for you.

Test It Out The Old School Way

If technology is just not your thing, feel free to pick a target on the range and experiment with different lofted drivers to see which gives you the best results.

I highly recommend testing on the course and the range so that you get a better idea of how the ball spins and how accurate it is. Sometimes, with a wide driving range, we assume the strike was relatively good, but it’s just a bit off. The golf course gives us more accurate results.

Use an Arccos Grip

The Arccos Grip may be something you already have in your golf club. Many Ping and Cobra clubs have this grip in place, and it will essentially track information about your drives as you play.

With the Arccos Grip, you can experiment with different driver lofts and get concrete evidence as to which is the right fit for your game. These grips work for slower swing speeds, average swing speed golfers, and even fast swing speeds.

The grip is less accurate than something like a Trackman golf simulator, but it’s a good step toward getting you some information.

Brittany Olizarowicz

Britt O has been playing golf since the age of 7. Almost 30 years later, she still loves the game, has played competitively on every level, and spent a good portion of her life as a Class A PGA Professional. Britt currently resides in Savannah, GA, with her husband and two young children.

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A pull with the driver can be incredibly frustrating.

What I have always hated about a pulled shot is that, at first, it feels really solid. But then, when you see the ball heading down the left, you know you are in trouble.

With all the hype that slicing a driver gets, you may be surprised that pulling a driver is almost as common of a miss. I have a few ways in which you can help straighten out your driver and stop hitting a pull.

You may need a combination of more than one fix to get the driver straightened out.

1. Your Lower Body Stops Rotating

One of the top reasons that golfers pull the ball is that their lower body stops rotating as they come through the golf ball. In order to create power in the golf swing, you must rotate your body back. However, that rotation must also continue back through the golf ball.

If at any point during the swing, your lower body stops rotating, you will likely notice the golf ball is pulled. Pulling a shot with the driver very often deals with overactivity in the arms.

How to Fix It

There are plenty of drills to work on, continuing to rotate your lower body through the impact zone. However, I find that the majority of players that struggle with this mistake tend to be standing too close to the ball.

As you are setting up to hit your driver, make sure that you are not crowding yourself. When you do this, it’s hard to get the club to pass through impact and continue your rotation.

Another important thing to focus on is transferring your weight; as you move towards the finish position, all of your weight should be on the left foot; this ensures your rotation is considerably better.

2. You’re Coming Over The Top

If you swing over the top and your clubface is slightly closed, the chance of hitting a pull is quite high. An over-the-top swing is one where the golf club is not on a proper plane as it approaches the ball.

Most of the time, the club is above the plane and swinging across the body. This over-the-top motion will, at times, cause a slice.

How to Fix It

An over the top golf swing is common. If the individual parts of your golf swing are not working all that well together, expect to come over the top.

The one thing that I have always found to help players that come over the top is to try to create a slight pause at the top of the golf swing. When you create this pause, it can help you feel the space necessary to drop the club down on the proper plane.

In addition, if you start your backswing with a turn, you should have an easier time keeping the hands and the body working together.

3. Your Hands Are Too Active In The Swing

The hands play a really important role in the golf swing, but many amateur golfers get their hands overly involved in their swing. If you are working on trying to hit the ball straight, it’s best to have less activity in the hands and more arms and body working together.

You can sometimes use your hands to square up a face and hit a straight shot, but it’s certainly not consistent.

How to Fix It

One of the best ways I have found to keep the hands out of the swing is to stay more connected. Take a headcover and put it under each of your arms, near the armpit. Now take some swings without letting this headcover fall out.

You don’t need to take actual shots, instead, use it as a drill and then step up to hit a shot. You should notice that the body stays more connected and the chance of your hands taking over and pulling the ball are a bit lower.

4. You’re Holding Weight Back

The fact that you transferred weight back to your right side (for a right handed player) is a great thing. However, to play great golf with lots of power, the weight also needs to transfer back to the left side as you move through impact.

Golfers that hold weight back on the right side will send the club flying through impact, and it most often has a closed clubface.

How to Fix It

The key to learning how to fix holding your weight back is to learn how to effectively transfer weight in the golf swing. This will take a lot of work without hitting shots and trying to create muscle memory of what it feels like to swing the club back while simultaneously getting that weight to transfer.

Once your weight is loaded up the way it should be, you can go after the ball and explode with power.

This video teaches some of the basics of a great weight transfer and how it can improve your golf game.

5. Your Clubface is Closed

Another one of the more common reasons for pulling a golf shot is the fact that the clubface is closed. To give yourself the best shot at a long driver, you need a square clubface and a proper club path as well.

Sometimes at setup, a golfer will close the clubface to help prevent a slice. The problem, of course, is when the clubface is closed to the target line, it can also create a pulled shot.

While you are checking on the angle of your clubhead, make sure that you are also looking at the ball’s position. The ball position for a driver should be off the inside of your left heel. If you are playing it further back than that, it could result in a pull.

How to Fix It

This is one of the simple fixes in the game of golf. Learn what a square clubface looks like by using a straight edge of some sort. Setup with the club on the straight edge to see what a 90-degree clubface looks like.

On the takeaway, make sure you don’t adjust the shot and start closing the clubface down. A slice is a bad miss, but if you overcorrect too much, you end up with a pull.

6. You Have Poor Alignment

Amateur golfers sometimes take a stance that will set them up to the left of their target line. The pulled shot is not always caused by mistake in the golf swing and is instead caused right at setup.

If you are working on your golf game at the driving range, use alignment sticks to work on your tee shot alignment.

How to Fix It

Always pick a line for your clubhead, and then make sure that your feet, shoulders, and hips are square to this line. If your legs are open and your clubface is square, you could be setting yourself up to hit a slice.

If those feet are closed, and your clubface is square, there is a good chance you are going to pull your tee shot.

Take the time you need in your setup. It’s one of the most important areas of the golf swing. The setup is a way to ensure you get to the perfect impact position. I like to incorporate my aiming routine into my pre-shot routine so that it is done the same way every time.

7. Your Grip Is Too Strong

Our only connection with the golf club is the grip. Golfers with strong grip have their left hand turned more to the right than they should. This extra turn of the hand allows the right hand to fit more under the club.

With one hand rotated more on the bottom of the club, it takes a more active role and makes it easier for a golfer to release the clubhead at impact.

For players that slice the ball, this has always been a great quick fix. However, most amateur players tend to overcorrect. If you overcorrect and your grip starts to get too strong, it will create a pulled shot. Many times these pulls turn into hooks.

How to Fix It

Finding the perfect grip on your golf club is an art. There are grip trainers out there that make it easy to see exactly where your hands should be on the club. However, it’s best to invest time in this process and learn how to grip the club in a neutral position.

Start by ensuring your left thumb is not wrapped too far to the right of the center of the grip. Instead, keep the left thumb a bit more straight down the shaft.

When your left hand is in this potion, the right hand should fit more on top of the club than under it. This positioning takes the right hand out of it a little and allows you to get your golf shot on the proper path.

I would work on keeping this same grip in place for all clubs, aside from the driver.

Brittany Olizarowicz

Britt O has been playing golf since the age of 7. Almost 30 years later, she still loves the game, has played competitively on every level, and spent a good portion of her life as a Class A PGA Professional. Britt currently resides in Savannah, GA, with her husband and two young children.

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Callaway is no stranger to forgiving, high-launching drivers which deliver optimal yardage for the average golfer. In this post, I provide a detailed Callaway Epic Max driver review to help you determine if it suits your swing.

You’ll find this driver produces high forgiveness, rampant ball speed, and moderate spin for a consistently elevated launch. In addition, its draw bias profile helps amateur golfers fight slices for straighter drivers.

So, how does it achieve this? Read further to learn about the inner workings of the most forgiving of the Epic drivers.

Features

A.I Designed Jailbreak Speed Frame

At times I feel Mark Zuckerberg is pulling strings at Callaway, given their liberal use of artificial intelligence (A.I.) in their products. I am not complaining because it takes forgiveness and consistency to another level.

Previous jailbreak architectures only stabilized the clubface vertically, while the new construction provides torsional direction stability. In my experience, this generated consistent ball speed across an expanded zone for consistent yardage on all shots.

A.I Designed Flash Face

You can see what I mean when I say Callaway engineers enjoy AI. The engineers designed the clubface with AI, to optimize the spin and speed over a wider area of the clubface. You’ll notice this prompts fast speeds, even on heel and toe mishits, to mitigate a loss of yards.

Lighter Triaxial Carbon Material

Another stroke of genius in the production of the Callaway Epic Max driver is the use of a triaxial carbon material. You’ll notice the frame is constructed with this material instead of titanium, enabling the engineers to save 19 grams of weight.

They then took this mass and applied it low and deep for a low center of gravity (CG) and high moment of inertia (MOI). I produced a consistent, elevated launch on all shots due to the CG position, while the MOI kept my clubface square for straighter shots.

Sliding Rear Weight

Sticking with mass-related features, I introduce you to the 17-gram sliding rear weight. You’ll find a simple tweak of the position alters the shot bias of your drives. Its factory setting is a draw bias to help restrict side spin and prompt straighter flight, but you can change it as you see fit.

If you find the draw bias setup is delivering hooks, you can alter the position to a neutral or fade bias. Callaway suggests the weight can correct your shot shape by 20-yards, but I achieved an average of 12-yards.

Optifit Hosel

In addition to the CG shifting rear weight, the Epic Max is equipped with an Optifit hosel, which enables you to adjust the loft and lie angle of the clubface. You’ll see that it has four adjustment settings to strengthen, weaken or keep it neutral.

I found the hosel allowed me to reduce loft by 1 degree to lower my launch and spin off the tee. Conversely, I reduced the loft by 2 degrees when I wanted a high, consistent tee shot. For example, if I acquire a 10.5-degree, I can strengthen the driver loft to 9.5-degrees and weaken it up to 12.5-degrees.

Lofts

As with most drivers, the forgiving Epic Max is offered in 3 loft profiles to cater to slow, moderate, and fast swing speeds. You’ll notice your lowest lofted option is a 9-degree driver, which you can reduce to 8 degrees or weaken to 11 degrees.

A 10.5-degree lofted design is the middle child in the series and provides the ideal platform for golfers with moderate speeds to produce a medium-level flight. However, if the flight is too high for you, you can strengthen the loft to 9.5-degrees or increase it to 12.5-degrees.

Your final option is a 12-degree setup, which is brilliant for slower swing speeds, such as seniors or beginners. In addition, you can shave off a degree and set it at 11 degrees for a lower launch. Conversely, you can increase it to 14 degrees for an easier high launch.

Shafts

A stock Callaway Epic Max driver is constructed with two shaft options from the Project X stable. The two shafts offer more choices for moderate and higher swing speeds in the form of regular, stiff, and extra-stiff shafts.

The Project X Cypher 40 shafts are the best bet for slower swing speeds, as it is the only construction offered in a senior flex. In addition, this graphite shaft carries a regular, stiff, and extra-stiff shaft. Naturally, you’ll find these flex designs are ideal for moderate and faster swing speeds.

I found the Cypher 40 shafts helped me achieve an incredibly increased apex, which higher handicappers may appreciate. In my case, I felt like I ballooned my shots and lost carry and total distance.

Contrarily, the HZRDOUS Smoke IM10 shafts are a wise choice for golfers seeking a mid-to-low launch for greater control off the tee box. You’ll find these are only offered in a stiff and regular flex which works for moderate and fast driver swing speeds.

Performance

Price

Despite its mature age in the artillery of Callaway driver releases, the Epic Max is not the cheapest pick out there. Permitted, it is lower than the latest release, the Rogue ST range, but still expensive for an older model.

However, it possesses advanced game improvement technology to offer forgiveness and consistency and is constructed with premium materials. Therefore, it is a durable, reliable golf club that will carry you in the years ahead.

Feel and Sound

I found the Epic Max provided a solid feel and I could feel my ball springing off the face. Plus, it produced a clean-sounding ping off the super strong titanium face, which every golfer will appreciate.

Spin

I produced more spin than usual, reaching 3500 RPM on average. As you can imagine, this resulted in a higher launch, perfect for slower-swinging mid and high-handicappers. However, my apex was too high for my liking, causing me to lose carry and total distance.

Let’s not get bogged down with my preferences. I feel the escalated spin will benefit those who struggle to consistently get their ball airborne. Players seeking a lower launch without sacrificing forgiveness should test the Callaway Epic Max LS driver.

Forgiveness

You’ll find this edition offers superior forgiveness compared to the Callaway Epic Flash driver, thanks to its draw bias profile and enlarged sweet spot. Although it will not eradicate your slices, it will reduce the severity of the curve.

What I Like About The Callaway Epic Max

Consistent Ball Speed

I appreciated the consistency of my ball speed provided by the A. I designed Jailbreak Speed Frame and A.I. constructed flash face. Together, helped me maintain ball speed on heel and toe strikes to produce adequate distance on all shots.

Accuracy

You’ll find the combination of a high MOI construction and draw bias profile help high handicappers combat slices. In addition, the high MOI setup is designed to help you square your clubface at impact and produce straighter ball flight.

Forgiveness

From promoting straighter shots and a high launch and maintaining ball speed on all strikes, the Epic Max is incredibly lenient. I feel it is ideal for high handicappers struggling to find fairways or produce a consistently elevated launch.

Versatility

I never suggest tinkering with your loft and weight position, but it is nice to know that you have the option. The optifit hosel allows you to alter your driver loft and lie angle to produce a higher or lower trajectory. Plus, the rear sliding weight helps you set up the driver for a draw, fade, or neutral shape.

High Launch

Finally, I must mention the high launch produced by this driver, as it is highly beneficial to slow-swinging golfers. It is not my preference, but it is easy to swing and launch high on every shot.

What I Dislike About The Callaway Epic Max

Price

Even though Callaway has released the Rogue ST range of the Epic drivers, the Max still carries a lofty price tag.

Spin

I did not enjoy the elevated spin rate because it caused me to balloon tee shots and lose carry distance. However, this will suit slower swingers. If you have the same feeling, look at the Epic Max low-spin driver.

Limited Workability

The high MOI design and draw bias profile prevented me from inducing a draw or a fade. This is not important for high handicappers who need to focus on hitting straight but may annoy you later as you enter the ranks of a mid-handicapper.

Overall Rating and Thoughts

Overall, my Callaway Epic Max driver review has revealed that I am mostly optimistic about the performance. I felt it provided exceptional forgiveness, consistent ball speed and encourages straighter ball flight.

Mid-handicappers can benefit from the forgiveness and consistency of this golf club. However, I feel it is high-handicap golfers who stand to extract the highest value from this forgiving driver.

Overall Rating: 91/100

Matt Stevens

Matt Callcott-Stevens started playing golf at the age of 4 when Rory Sabattini’s father put a 7-iron and putter in his hand. He has experienced all the highs and lows the game can throw at you and has now settled down as a professional golf writer. He holds a Postgraduate in Sports Marketing and has played golf for 28 years.

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For some golfers, the fact that the driver is so long can lead to trouble with control of the ball and ensuring that the shots stay in play.

This is why some players start choking down on their driver, and they almost immediately notice the impact it has on their game.

I’ve tried this concept, especially when I was younger (and even shorter). The results are… interesting and not necessary for everyone. Some amateurs can do well with choking down on the driver, while others should think twice before using this strategy.

Let’s take a look at what choking down on your driver will do for your game.

The Pros of Choking Down on Your Driver

There are a few reasons that golfers will choke down on a driver. The first and most obvious is that the club is long, and this can be hard for some players to adjust to. However, the main reason why golfers choke down is to establish control with the club.

Better Contact with The Center of The Club Head

If you want to make consistent contact with the center of the club head, it’s easiest to do it with a shorter club.

Have you ever noticed that you can hit your pitching wedge more consistently than you can hit your 4 iron? The main reason behind this is that the 4 iron is considerably longer, and it makes it more difficult to find the sweet spot.

When something is further away, it’s harder to be accurate; when it’s closer, you have more control. If you find that you make contact with the heel, toe, upper face, or bottom of the club head, it may be time to consider choking down on the driver to see if you can hit the sweet spot.

Lower Trajectory

Interestingly I put lower trajectory as both a pro and a con.

Sometimes hitting the ball lower is a great thing. If the wind is in your face and you are playing in the colder weather and want just to get the ball to advance down the fairway, this lower trajectory makes a big difference.

A lower trajectory won’t necessarily make you hit the ball further, but it does play well to the accuracy of the shot, and you should be able to hit it a bit straighter. Choking down on the club makes the club a little stiffer and therefore lowers the trajectory.

Less Spin

For some players, spin can be hard to keep in check with the driver in the hands. If you want to try and create a little less backspin or side spin on your golf driver, then choking down can help. Some golfers find that they get a bit more forward roll and spin when swinging with a driver they have choked down on.

Drivers today are lower in spin than they ever have been. So the technology will already be on your side here; it’s just a matter of combining it with the correct swing and setup.

Better Control of The Club

Control is the name of the game from the tee box. I have played with so many great players that can hit the ball a mile, but if you can’t keep it in play, what is the point of hitting it straight?

If you can learn to control the golf club, there is so much you can do on the golf course. For those trying to hit a fade or a draw, I highly recommend choking down as you learn. You will find it much easier to complete the process with a club in your hands that is slightly shorter in length.

The Cons of Choking Down on Your Driver

Unfortunately, choking down on a driver is not a perfect solution. There are issues with total distance, tempo, and lower ball flight that can be a problem for some players. Let’s face the facts here if this was a perfect solution, all golfers would do it, but that is not the case.

Less Distance

When you choke down on your driver, expect to get a little less distance. The difference in distance should be astronomical, but nobody really likes to lose distance on their drives. Expect about 5 to 15 years of loss on a driver.

The total length of most standard drivers is around 45 or 46 inches. When you choke down, you are effectively shortening the club, making it more difficult to get distance from the shots you are trying to hit.

It’s almost like hitting a 3 wood with a driver’s head on it. On an easy hole with no trouble in front of you, don’t worry about choking down on the driver. Get all the distance you can and play the wider fairway.

Slower Club Head Speed

Another problem with choking down on the driver is that it can slow down your club head speed. Of course, you may think that choking up on the club makes it shorter and easier to swing faster, but this isn’t the case.

Since the club swing weight is a bit higher and the shaft is stiffer from choking down, some players will actually lose some speed. This won’t be the case for all golfers, but it’s something to consider and think about when deciding if this is a good method for you to use on the course.

Lower Ball Flight

As I mentioned, lower ball flight is both positive and negative.

Keeping the ball in the air for a long time is good. You will get tremendous carry and the best possible results. However, a lower trajectory and a lower launch lead to less total distance.

If you want that big high, flying driver that heads down the center of the fairway, choking up is not the way to get it done.

Stiffer Shaft

If you have ever thought of cutting down an old golf driver shaft to make it a good choice for a younger player, you are doing them quite a disservice. When you adjust the shaft length like this by cutting it down, you make the club considerably stiffer.

The stiffer shaft will be hard for slower swing speed players to deal with. Professional golfers don’t seem too affected by this, as this minor adjustment doesn’t counteract their fast speeds.

Tempo Concerns

Sometimes the tempo of your golf swing can get thrown off when you choke down on your driver. Players will inadvertently increase grip pressure, forget to make a complete backswing, and sometimes lose balance when trying to choke down on the golf club.

Of course, you can improve your golf tempo by practicing on the driving range and learning how not to change your swing when you choke down on the club. Just keep this one in mind in case you choke down and feel like your swing is not the same.

How to Decide If You Should Choke Down on Your Driver

Sometimes the playing conditions on the course or some features of our golf swing will help you decide if it makes sense to choke down on your driver. Here are the factors that you should be thinking about.

Weather Conditions

When it is cold, windy, and wet, you will want to keep your dispersion rates down. The golf course is hard enough. Make sure you are hitting these accurate drives that get plenty of roll and can penetrate through the rough conditions.

On nice weather days when your swing feels fluid, and you aren’t as concerned with control and a lower launch, choking down on the driver is likely not necessary.

Trouble on The Hole

Golfers who are good at golf course management can accurately assess a hole and decide if it’s wise to swing away or keep things a bit more under control. Of course, when there is less trouble on a hole, you can look for increased clubhead speed and more distance.

When the golf hole has water hazards, sand traps, or even out-of-bounds, it could pay to choke down on your driver and get the ball in play. Some golfers will also consider using a 3 wood for a hole like this.

Player Height

The player’s height is another important consideration. If you are a taller golfer, it makes sense to hold your club at the very top. For shorter golfers, sometimes a longer driver feels challenging to control. If this is the case, simply hold the club a bit further down.

If you find yourself doing this continually, it may make sense to consider a shorter driver. Purchase this type of golf driver direct from the manufacturer instead of having it custom-fitted after the fact.

When you purchase direct, the club weighting and stiffness of the shaft can be double-checked before it’s put into your hands.

How Far You Should Choke Down

Golfers are often unsure of exactly how far down the shaft they should be choking down on a driver. You will have to play around with this based on what feels comfortable and what produces the proper results.

Generally speaking, choking down about one inch from the top of the driver is the perfect amount for most players. This small amount still has a great impact on the overall length of the shot and the ability to get the ball in the center of the fairway.

Remember that most golf grips have a taper to them. This means that the further you choke down, the smaller the club is going to feel in your hands. This can impact your ability to turn the club over, and some players hit the ball left because of it.

The next time you’re at the driving range, try a few swings choking down on your driver and see how it works out.

Brittany Olizarowicz

Britt O has been playing golf since the age of 7. Almost 30 years later, she still loves the game, has played competitively on every level, and spent a good portion of her life as a Class A PGA Professional. Britt currently resides in Savannah, GA, with her husband and two young children.

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TaylorMade released the Stealth driver range in 2022, kicking off the “Carbonwood Age” and moving away from the standard titanium clubface.

In this article, I conduct a TaylorMade Stealth driver review and examine the features, benefits, and downsides of this highly forgiving big stick.

You’ll notice that the Stealth is built for mid-handicappers seeking optimal leniency and a mid-to-high launch with a neutral ball flight.

If you are a high handicapper, you may prefer the draw bias profile of the Stealth HD driver. Conversely, the mid-launching Stealth Plus works for low handicappers.

Quick Overview of The TaylorMade Stealth Driver

Features

60X Carbon Twist Face

The sizeable difference between a TaylorMade Stealth driver and alternative products is its 60X carbon twist face. You’ll see that the engineers applied 60 carbon fiber layers to the clubface to enhance your feel and acoustics at impact.

In addition, I noticed that the Carbon fiber face helped me produce sufficient friction to get my ball airborne. However, the ball did not stay on the clubface for longer than necessary. Thanks to its flexible face, it generated ample ball speed because of the flexibility of the active zone.

Finally, the twist face construction resists turning during your swing to remain square to the target at impact. You’ll find that it promotes straighter shots for improved accuracy.

Nanotexture Cover

I noticed that the Stealth carried an additional protective layer on the carbon face, composed of polyurethane. TaylorMade calls it Nanotexture technology, and it helps you maintain ball speed and spin on all strikes. Plus, I felt it did well to eradicate vibrations typically experienced on off-center strikes.

Asymmetric Inertia Generator

Next, you’ll find that the Stealth packs an inertia-generating clubhead, which means it carries superior aerodynamics. I felt the driver glided through the air uninterrupted on my downswing, aiding my clubhead speed for a powerful strike.

Furthermore, the asymmetric inertia generator allowed the engineers to place a weight on the rear of the driver’s clubhead. You’ll find that this increases the offset of the driver and its moment of inertia (MOI) to encourage straighter shots.

While I have no gripe with the generator’s effectiveness, this technology is not new to the Stealth big stick. You can find it in the SIM range of drivers, predating the Stealth series.

Thru-Slot Speed Pocket

I noticed that the Thru-Slot Speed Pocket came to my aid on two separate occasions during testing after generating low-face strikes. Previous TaylorMade drivers carried this technology, and the brand obviously adopted the approach of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

The speed pocket enhances clubface flex to offer increased spring at the impact on mishits low off the face. Typically, striking the golf ball in this area leads to a drop-off in ball speed and spin, causing you to hit a short, low-spinning drive. You’ll see that you end up producing consistent yardage.

4 Degree Adjustable Loft Sleeve

As expected from a premium, modern construction, the new Stealth driver contains an adjustable loft sleeve.

You’ll notice that you can strengthen or weaken your standard loft by 2 degrees in either direction. For example, if you play a 10.5-degree loft, you can lower it to 8.5-degrees. Contrarily, you can weaken the clubface loft, to 12.5-degrees.

I suggest you refrain from tinkering with the loft excessively, as it impacts your face angle and can alter your length, trajectory, and launch. However, it is handy if you are trying to identify the correct profile for your swing.

Lofts

You’ll notice that stock TaylorMade Stealth drivers are constructed in 3 loft profiles to suit faster, moderate, and slower swing speeds. A 9-degree design is the lowest lofted creation in the Stealth range and is better suited to those with higher swing speeds.

Furthermore, a 10.5-degree profile is built for moderate swing speeds, seeking a mid-to-high launch off the tee box. Finally, you’ll find that the 12-degree design is ideal for slower swingers looking for a higher launching ball for farther carry yardage.

Shafts

TaylorMade offers golfers the choice of 4 stock shafts to suit a variety of swing speeds. However, I find that most options cater more toward moderate and high swing speeds than slower swingers.

You’ll find that if you fit into the category of a moderate swinger, there are only two options with regular flexes. The Aldila Ascent Red and the Ventus Red 5 are the way to go. The latter is also the only stock shaft with a senior flex, ideal for slow swing speed.

Finally, super fast swing speeds have the luxury of choosing the Aldila, Tour AD 12, and the Mitsubishi Diamana ZF60. These shafts offer stiff and extra stiff flex to produce straight ball flight for optimal roll, control, and total distance.

Stock Grip

The final feature to discuss is the Lamkin Crossline 360 grip with a textured feel. I felt that the tiny indents cluttered around the grip boosted my traction for superb control of the golf club. However, the standard size of the rubber may prove challenging for some golfers to keep the club on path.

Performance

Fast Ball Speed

I found that the Stealth driver delivered ball speed in line with my average on a GCQuad launch monitor. On a good day, I can generate approximately 134 mph velocity with a driver, and the Stealth driver notches up just under 133 mph. We are talking about the minor differences that had little impact on my total yardage.

Spin Rate

My optimal driver spin rate is 3000 revolutions per minute (rpm), and the Stealth is marginally a higher rate. It clocked in over 3200 rpm of spin, which did generate a slightly higher launch than usual. However, this suits the average golfer who requires increased launch for optimal distance.

Launch

In its factory settings, the Stealth driver is built to encourage a mid to high launch for consistent carry distance. I noticed that the intensified spin prompted an elevated apex on each occasion, making it a breeze to launch.

However, the higher launching nature of the Stealth may deter superior players looking for piercing flight off the tee.

Forgiveness

In my experience, the Stealth provided ample forgiveness ranging from accuracy, ball speed, and distance. Firstly, the high-MOI design of the clubface keeps it square to deliver direct flight for improved accuracy. In addition, an enlarged sweet spot maintains the ball’s pace and lowers spin for increased length.

Accuracy

I felt the combination of the Carbon Twist Face and weight distribution worked well to bolster accuracy. These features worked to keep your face square at contact to prevent a slice and induce straight accurate drives.

What I Like About The TaylorMade Stealth

Launch

The TaylorMade Stealth is an easy driver to consistently launch high and long, a trait suited to casual golfers. You’ll find that the higher launch is generated by the Nanotexture technology, which tweaks spin for optimal lift off the tee.

Accelerated Clubhead Speed

My clubhead speed is not the fastest, clocking in at approximately 85 mph. However, the Stealth earned me an extra mile per hour, up to 86 mph. You’ll notice that the Asymmetric Inertia Generator helps your clubhead glide through the air uninterrupted and accelerate velocity on the downswing.

High-MOI Design

I feel that the high-MOI design of this driver suits the needs of the average golfer prone to slicing the ball. I like that the Stealth mitigates the impact of wayward strikes, reducing the intensity of the slice. When you can square the clubface at impact, you stand a higher chance of finding the fairway.

Feel

The Feel of the Stealth driver is a double-edged sword. It impressed me and frustrated me simultaneously. I enjoyed its ability to reduce vibrations felt on off-center shots and shield my hands. However, the feeling was too muted, like I was hitting an airball.

Forgiveness

Besides encouraging accurate tee shots, the Stealth delivered a consistently high launch and optimal spin and ball speed. Its optimal approach to leniency works for the average golfer looking to preserve yardage without ending out of bounds on each shot.

What I Dislike About The TaylorMade Stealth

Price

Off the bat, I am not a fan of the exorbitant price of this driver. However, I understand that years of research and development go into manufacturing a groundbreaking product. If you are in the market for a long-term driver it is definitely worth the high price tag.

No Sliding Weight Track

Unlike the TaylorMade Stealth Plus, the standard edition does not include a sliding weight track, enabling you to adjust the center of gravity (CG). If you like the freedom of tinkering with your setup, then the Plus edition may be a better solution.

Similar Features To Previous Models

Despite the carbon wood clubface, the Stealth contains several technologies and features used in previous TaylorMade drivers. That in itself is not a negative. However, you can find older TaylorMade drivers with many of the same features at a lower price.

Shaft Options For Slower Swingers

The final downside of the Stealth is the shaft options for slower swingers. Only the Ventus Red 5 is offered in a senior flex. The remaining options are geared toward moderate and high swing speeds.

Overall Rating and Thoughts

The Stealth is the outcome of genius engineering, designed to take drivers into a new age of production. I appreciate the exceptional forgiveness, consistency, and yardage it offers the average golfer. However, its premium price point will place it beyond reach for some.

If you are looking for a premium quality driver to invest in for the long term, look no further than the Stealth for a reliable investment in your game. It promotes straighter shots, is easy to launch, and delivers consistent carry yards. Overall, I feel the TaylorMade Stealth driver is for serious mid-handicappers looking for a big stick to carry them down to a low handicapper.

Readers who appreciate the work of TaylorMade should read our review of the timeless TaylorMade M4.

Overall Rating: 89/100

Matt Stevens

Matt Callcott-Stevens started playing golf at the age of 4 when Rory Sabattini’s father put a 7-iron and putter in his hand. He has experienced all the highs and lows the game can throw at you and has now settled down as a professional golf writer. He holds a Postgraduate in Sports Marketing and has played golf for 28 years.

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The great thing about the Callaway Mavrik driver being out now for a few years is that we can really decide whether or not this club is worth the money. Pricing has dropped, and new models have been brought to the market, but the Mavrik is still around.

This is the driver that I currently have in my bag. Therefore, I’ve got a lot to say about it!

If you are thinking of putting a Mavrik in the bag, or maybe even thinking it’s time to take it out, here are the things you should know about the Callaway Mavrik driver.

Callaway Mavrik Driver Features

The Callaway Mavrik driver has AI Technology and some impressive internal components to help golfers improve on overall distance and accuracy. Here are the stand-out features and how they will impact your game.

High Strength FS2S Titanium

Traditional titanium no longer cuts it as a premium golf material. Golf manufacturers are looking for alternative technologies that can help them give players tremendous distance gains. Callaway chose the FS2S Titanium for immense speed and better weighting than other types of technology.

I can tell you that the face has a firm but fast feel, and the ball jumps off it. I switched from a 7-year-old Cobra driver when I purchased the Mavrik, and the very first thing I noticed was the jump off the face.

Adjustable Hosel

The adjustable hosel in the Callaway Mavrik allows golfers to fine tune the ball flight and the face angle to ensure it’s a better fit. When I first started playing the Mavrik, I felt it was really open and actually closed the face a little.

I ended up moving it back and playing with the loft. However, the bottom line is that this adjustability makes it much easier to keep a club in play for years to come.

If you change your swing, work on that dreaded slice or even start hooking the ball a bit, you can adjust the clubhead to see an improvement.

Artificial Intelligence

We got through plenty of years of golf without artificial intelligence to help us. However, now that it’s here, it’s a mistake not to take advantage of it. AI allowed Callaway to perfectly position the center of gravity, improve weighting and increase overall ball speeds in their golf clubs.

The Callaway Mavrik line features include ball speed and distance, and much of that has to do with the AI construction. Combining that with the Jailbreak and Triaxial Carbon Crown, this driver is the complete package.

Callaway Mavrik Driver Performance

Now that you have a better idea of what the technology is like in the Callaway Mavrik let’s take a more detailed look at how the golf club actually performs. I’m playing with the Standard Mavrik driver with a stiff shaft, and right now, I have it set on the neutral settings at 10.5 degrees.

Price

The Callaway Mavrik driver has dropped in price since its initial release. For the value it is now offered, it is well worth the price. Of course, when clubs age a year or two, it can be hard to find the customized shaft selections you are looking for.

However, sometimes it’s worth getting a stock shaft like the UST Helium Black or Evenflow Riptide and seeing how this performs before replacing it.

Feel & Sound

The Mavrik is loud but nothing that stands out as being obnoxious. You know, there have been some Cobra or Ping drivers in the past that had a sound that many golfers couldn’t really put up with.

However, the Jailbreak bars and Jailbreak technology must help to muffle a little of what goes on inside the clubhead because it’s a pleasing sound that you would expect from a premium club.

The feel of the Mavrik is something that initially concerned me. I was transferring from a soft-feeling Cobra driver that was tremendously responsive. In addition, I had given the Epic Flash Driver a try and felt that the feel was harsh.

However, the Mavrik had a better feel than I expected, plenty of consistency, and even with a stock shaft, had some built-in workability.

Spin

Spin robustness is something that is important to consider in any club you put into your bag. The Mavrik has low spin rates; however, not the lowest spin rate on the market. If you have the driver set properly and your swing is on, the lower spinning drives roll for quite a ways.

However, it does take a little playing around with the shaft and driver club head settings to get the spin perfect and benefit from the levels of spin you need.

Mid handicappers and below will have no trouble with the spin you get from the Callaway Mavrik.

Forgiveness

The Callaway Mavrik drive is forgiving. It’s not the most forgiving driver I’ve ever used, but I certainly consider it more of a game-improvement driver than a players club. The cyclone aero shape cuts through the air easily, and the more expansive area that Callaway considers the sweet spot gives you a lot of room for error.

I find that I can feel where I miss it (high, low, heel, toe), but the shot still ends up in the general area where I need it to be.

Distance

Distance from the Mavrik is good, regardless of clubhead speed. Slower swing speed golfers have noticed tremendous games, and higher swing speed golfers playing with the right shaft can go after this club without having to worry about it.

The new Callaway Rogue and TaylorMade Stealth are getting fast ball speeds and beating the Mavrik out a bit. However, for many players, this is a very small difference. If you haven’t upgraded your driver in the last few years, the Mavrik has some impressive distance.

The only negative I can say regarding distance is that there are times when I can hit the ball a good 10 or 15 yards further than other times when I feel like I have made a good swing. The distance control is just a bit off, but I never feel like I’m losing distance with this driver.

What I Like About The Callaway Mavrik Driver

My favorite thing about the Callaway Mavrik Driver, especially now that I have it dialed in a bit more, is the consistency. I no longer have to think about this club; when I stand on the tee box, I know where it is going.

In fact, I even know where my miss is going.

Although the distance control isn’t always great, the results of the drive are something I’m almost always happy with.

In addition, the Callaway Mavrik driver has a great feel. As I mentioned, I can feel when I miss it, but the ball still travels where I want it to. Essentially being able to get feedback but not have to deal with a disastrous shot is a huge benefit.

Lastly, the Callaway Mavrik Driver is an outstanding value right now. This club is going to stay in play for quite some time, and the technology will remain relevant. It’s a good time to buy.

What I Dislike About The Callaway Mavrik Driver

The driver sits really open.

In fact, when I went to get it regripped not that long ago, the pro there even mentioned that he feels like this driver always sits so far open. It really does.

However, it’s more the way it looks than whether or not the club is actually open to the target. If your clubface is open to the target, you will hit shots right, but I almost never hit this driver right.

The top-down look is wide open, but the driver is square. If you know this is going in, you won’t make the same mistake I did and start adjusting the driver to help it look more square. Just let this club sit as it’s designed, and you will get some really impressive drives out of it.

Overall Rating and Thoughts

If you have a driver more than four or five years old and are looking for an upgrade, the Callaway Mavrik is a great choice. I always like to try and narrow down the driver choices based on handicap, but with the Mavrik, I don’t need to.

Regardless of your handicap, there are some benefits here that you can really enjoy. Golfers will be impressed with the overall value that this driver offers. This is my first Callaway driver in more than 30 years of playing the game, and it has me excited to see what this brand comes up with next.

Overall Rating: 95/100

Brittany Olizarowicz

Britt O has been playing golf since the age of 7. Almost 30 years later, she still loves the game, has played competitively on every level, and spent a good portion of her life as a Class A PGA Professional. Britt currently resides in Savannah, GA, with her husband and two young children.

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There is no feeling more painful for golfers than inflicting damage on your clubs.

Unless you got mad and intended to do it, then go ahead. However, despite their Frankenstein appearance, does it impact your performance? In this post, I answer the question of if you can still golf with a dented driver.

I will explain everything you need to know to save you from a heart attack the next time you accidentally scar your club head.

Will a Dented Driver Head Affect Your Shot?

According to golf coach Mark Crossfield in the video below, clubhead dents have no bearing on your performance. I can attest to that, being the disorganized golfer I once was.

I hardly used wood or iron covers, and when I did, I would be annoyed with them after the first hole and throw them into my bag. That meant that I owned a few chipped and dented clubs, and they worked well enough for me to end my teen years as a low handicapper.

However, my clubs only had minor damage. In a video by Conan Elliot from Camas Meadows Golf Club, he makes a different case to Crossfield. He explains that deep indentations on the clubhead affect the aerodynamics and center of gravity (CG) of a driver:

If the indentation is severe, it can damage the weighting of your clubhead and increase the risk of instability through impact. However, it takes extreme events to damage your club that badly. I have seen many snapped driver heads, but never one that is dented beyond playability.

The most common result of a dented driver is its hideous cosmetics. Every time you address your golf ball on the tee, your driver’s head will remind you of your abusive actions. It will fill you with guilt for a few months, but then you get used to it.

Can You Fix a Dented Golf Driver?

When your driver contains a crater the size of Diamond Head and it impacts your game, you have 3 options (detailed below). In short, good luck to those hoping to fix it on their own. The damage is near impossible for even your local golf club repair shop to execute.

Option #1: Send It To The Manufacturer

Contacting the manufacturer is your first port of call to repair a dented clubface. If the driver is from a major brand, you may have a local rep you can reach out to. Alternatively, you can talk to the person you purchased the driver from.

The manufacturers are the only ones who can repair the head. That is because of its complex one-piece design that requires precise care. They will assess the depth of the dent and may charge you extra for the repair. The manufacturer may find that the head is irreparable and send you a new one instead.

Option #2: Keep Using Them

Significant concavity may impact CG and aerodynamics. However, result variations are typically minimal. Lower handicappers and professionals may notice the slight difference in clubhead speed, coefficient of restitution, and accuracy. However, the average golfer will not suffer significant setbacks.

Therefore, those players on a budget or who play infrequently can keep using the battered driver.

Option #3: Buy A New Club

Should your driver be ancient and belong in a vintage sports auction, you might consider purchasing a new club. There is no point in going on a mission to fix it when you could snatch up a new big stick. You do not have to purchase one of those expensive drivers. There are plenty of affordable options on the market.

How to Tell If Your Driver Is Too Dented to Continue Using

Appearance

The first way to determine if your driver is too dented to continue using it is to inspect it with the naked eye. If you see a cavity on the clubhead or face, run your finger across it. Should your finger drop significantly into the indentation, the severity of the damage may be enhanced.

Identifying a dented club is only part 1 in accurately determining if your club is fatally damaged.

Take It To A Club Fitter

When you spot a dent in your driver, I suggest taking it to an expert before panicking. Visit your local club fitter or golf repair workshop and get their opinion on the matter.

They may find that the head can continue, saving you hundreds of dollars. In addition, your local fitter may have the contact details of the relevant representative to contact about fixing it.

Sound

This is not an accurate test to identify if your driver is severely beaten up. However, you know how a normal strikeout of the sweet spot sounds and should listen for that at impact. Should your club produce a clicking sound, parts may be loose inside the head.

Clubhead Speed

You should use a launch monitor to accurately determine whether the condition of your driver impedes your game. These devices provide precise data on various elements of your launch, velocity, and yardage.

Some models are excessively priced, but you can find moderately priced options that the average player can afford. A reliable and accurate option is the FlightScope Mevo.

If a personal launch monitor is out of the question, strike a deal with your local pro shop or club fitter to use their device.

Set up your launch monitor and hit 5 to 10 drives to receive insight on your clubhead speed. If you are consistently lower than your average, then the dent may have hurt the aerodynamics of the driver. That means it produces increased drag and slows down through impact.

Ball Speed

Employ the launch monitor again to determine your ball speed data. Tee up a few shots to ensure that you are warmed up. You must swing the same way you would before the club was damaged. If you generate less ball speed than average, your driver may be injured.

On the odd chance, you find that it produces increased ball speed, I would stop complaining and keep using the driver.

Launch

Another way to tell if your dented driver has impacted your game is to assess your degree of launch. Look at whether you are launching it higher, lower, or the same as before. Any variations from your usual results might be induced by your golf club.

Distance

Like you did for your launch and velocity tests, use the launch monitor to assess your driving distance. If your yardage is less than before, I would take a few extra swings to ensure I am striking the ball cleanly.

When you are happy with your ball striking, analyze the results again. If it is still shorter than before, the driver could be hurting your distance game.

Accuracy

If you start hooking or slicing shots like never before after denting your driver, you may pin the blame on the damage. These results should prompt you to get the clubhead checked out and replaced if necessary.

Matt Stevens

Matt Callcott-Stevens started playing golf at the age of 4 when Rory Sabattini’s father put a 7-iron and putter in his hand. He has experienced all the highs and lows the game can throw at you and has now settled down as a professional golf writer. He holds a Postgraduate in Sports Marketing and has played golf for 28 years.

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Low loft golf drivers are an impressive piece of engineering. They are shaped to produce explosive ball speed and increased forgiveness for maximum driving distance and accuracy. Despite that, many amateurs struggle to launch a big stick.

In this post, I highlight 10 common reasons why you can’t hit your driver well.

There are countless reasons why you cannot make solid contact with a driver. However, it only takes a single error to unravel your setup.

I will pay special attention to the equipment specs, your grip, and distance. Besides highlighting the problem, I have provided solutions to improve your performance with this club.

1. Incorrect Loft

Before I bring out the errors of a driver swing, let us talk about your tools. You cannot achieve your desired launch angle, ball flight, and distance when you do not possess the correct equipment.

The first area of concern is the loft of your driver. If your clubface possesses less loft for your clubhead speed, you will struggle to consistently launch your shots. As a result, you lose, carry, and total distance off the tee.

Conversely, golfers with an accelerated driver club head speed may generate excess spin with a weaker lofted club face. Therefore, their golf ball achieves an abnormally high apex and lands softly, leading to a loss of total distance.

The majority of amateur golfers suffer from playing with strong lofts rather than with the weaker construction. I suggest carrying too much loft on your driver compared to too little.

2. Incorrect Shaft Flex

Like loft, your shaft flex is impacted by your swing speed. Golfers who generate rapid clubhead speed are best equipped for an extra stiff shaft. The reduced flex on your downswing boosts your control over the clubface position through impact. This enables these golfers to produce a straighter shot.

Moving along, we look at players averaging 97 to 104 mph of driver clubhead speed. True Spec Golf suggests that a stiff flex is a way to go. Most average male golfers fall into the category of a regular flex shaft. These are created for swing speeds between 84 to 96 mph.

Golfers who generate less than 84 mph of golf swing speed should contemplate a senior or ladies flex option. These constructions provide maximum flex to help slower swingers increase velocity for an optimal coefficient of restitution (COR) at impact.

My point is that if your shaft is too stiff for your swing, you will not produce sufficient ball speed and spin at contact. That causes your ball to launch low, costing you a significant distance off the tee. Contrarily, a lighter, flexible shaft causes faster swingers to initiate a higher spin and balloon their shots.

3. Longer Shaft

45.75-inches is the length of the average driver shaft, which is over 8-inches longer than a 7-iron. The reason I mention the 7-iron is to show the length’s contrast between the two. This variation requires a different ball position in your stance for a square clubface at impact position.

I will go into detail about ball position in a bit. For now, allow me to explain the other challenges of a longer shaft.

Most amateur golfers let their club rip rapidly from the top, which can throw off their swing tempo, leading to an unflattering smash factor.

Longer shafts are challenging to control, and your driver is the tallest of all of them. This lack of control can cause you to lose distance and slice or hook your golf ball all over the course. If your driver is not working, think about using a 5-wood or hybrid off the tee as a temporary solution.

Visiting a club-fitter to identify your ideal specs is the best approach for long-term fixes. They will address your issues and suggest the equipment that combats your mishits.

4. Heavier Clubhead Weight

On top of the longer shaft, a driver’s head is heavier than other clubs. On the bright side, it means you have a larger surface area to strike the ball and additional mass in the sole. Therefore, they contain a larger sweet spot to impart rapid speed onto the ball and reduce backspin.

However, the problem occurs between the top of your backswing and impact. Due to the added weight, you struggle to get the clubface into a square position for impact. Generally, this results in an open face at impact that produces a slice.

5. Your Grip Offers Limited Control of The Golf Club

Now that club specs are out of the way, let’s address the issue of your grip. This is where it goes wrong for the majority of amateurs. I am not talking about whether you use a Vardon, interlock, or baseball grip. I am referring to the number of knuckles you display at address.

Mark Crossfield explains that the strength of your grip impacts the point that your driver connects with your ball. For example, displaying 4 knuckles represents a strong grip. You need to manipulate your wrists at the top of the backswing to get your clubhead on plane for impact:

In addition, 2 to 3 knuckles represent a neutral grip. They are more comfortable for the average golfer to maintain control of the driver and optimize power and speed on the downswing.

Lastly, a weak grip is where 1 knuckle is visible. Crossfield suggests that you should bow your wrist to close the clubface to a square position with this grip.

A weak grip is expected to cause a fade or slice shot, whereas a sturdy grip can open you up to hooks. In addition, a neutral grip is the best setup to induce straight flight to spend more time on the fairway.

Therefore, think about weakening the grip if you are hooking your shots. Conversely, golfers renowned for slicing their shots may need to strengthen their hold on the golf club.

6. Incorrect Ball Position

Aside from grip, ball position is the biggest non-equipment reason for them missing the sweet spot.

Your driver is the longest club in your bag unless you carry a broomstick putter. This means you need to position the ball closer to your left heel if you are right-handed. As a result, you give yourself the time to square your clubface up for a straighter tee shot.

Aside from the length of the shaft, your golf ball is teed up. Therefore, you need to position the dimples to enable you to strike them on the up. The low point in your swing needs to occur a couple of inches behind the tee. This is to prepare your clubface to launch it high and long.

If you place the ball too far towards your back foot, you will produce a steep angle of attack, causing you to hit down on the ball. Unfortunately, most average golfers do not generate the power and velocity required to launch their ball far into the distance.

Contrarily, some golfers tee their ball up too far ahead of their front foot. This causes golfers to reach for the dimples, leading to their club’s sole bouncing off the turf before it gets near the ball. The likely outcome of this maneuver is a topped shot.

7. You Don’t Rotate Your Shoulders or Hips

Your driver shaft is longer, and the head contains added mass compared to the rest of your clubs. This means you should induce optimal hip and shoulder rotation during a full swing to get your driver on plane for impact.

Reduced rotation causes a loss of power and restricts your ability to produce the desired club path and swing plane. This results in a weak shot and a golf ball that veers off its target line.

When golfers remove rotation from their swings, they rely on their arms to guide the club and generate force. Typically prompting you to cast your club at the top of your swing and attack on an inside line. This leads to an open clubface at impact and a sliced shot.

If you struggle with rotation in your swing, you should review our guide on how much hip turn to induce. These tips simplify the process and help you correct the fundamentals of your lower body rotation.

8. You Lean Back Before Impact

Striking a golf ball with an upward angle of attack is a confusing motion for casual golfers to fathom. It is the opposite approach to every other shot we play. That is why many struggles with executing it.

One way golfers attempt to propel their clubface upward towards the ball is leaning back before impact. This sends the sole of your driver into the turf prior to the impact, leading to a topped shot and lost yardage.

The most common cause of this action originates from the lack of weight transfer from your trail leg to your lead leg. By keeping the weight on your back foot, it prompts you to fall back, and the club bottoms out early,

Rotation is grueling to master. However, if you follow the tips I have provided, you will be capable of enhancing your power, accuracy, and consistency.

In addition, you should review our 9 best shoulder turn drills to ensure that you are executing the task efficiently.

9. You Overswing

This is a challenge I faced for over a decade. Whenever I pulled out the big stick, I had a tendency to lose my mind and attempt to smash the plastic off the ball.

I took my club too far back, which caused it to fly off path at the top of the swing. From there, it was impossible to bring it on plane for contact. The outcome was, more often than I wanted, a nasty slice that propelled my ball well right side off my target.

After years of erratic tee shots, my new coach at the time suggested shortening my backswing. He proposed that this would help me keep the driver on plane and increase the consistency of my strike. I tried it, and it worked like a charm. The downside was that I lost distance, but I would happily sacrifice 10 to 15-yards for accuracy.

I’m not the only one with this problem. I see it frequently with amateurs looking to swing like Kyle Berkshire and accelerate their clubhead speed. However, they do not produce sufficient rotation and fail to keep their clubhead on the path, leading to an inaccurate drive.

Work on shortening your swing at the driving range, and focus on keeping your clubface square through impact. It is astonishing how much more fun golf is when you are playing your second shot from the fairway.

If you find it difficult to stop your backswing ¾ of the way back, try to slow it down. A slower swing makes you more conscious of your club’s position to stop it at the precise moment.

10. You Hit Down on The Ball

The final reason why you may struggle with a driver is that you hit down on the ball. This is the natural approach for shots with your irons and wedges. However, a driver carries a longer shaft and is made to hit teed up golf balls.

If you place it too far back in your stance you are bound to attack the ball from a steep angle. Instead of connecting the ball on the up, you hit down on it, reducing the loft of the clubface. As a result, the low point of your swing comes directly after impact rather than before.

Although this works for some professional golfers, it is not the recommended approach for amateurs. With this setup, you should generate maximum clubhead and ball speed to launch the ball long. That is no problem for professionals who catch the center of the clubface more than amateurs.

When you find yourself hitting down on the golf ball, its position in your stance. Move it towards the inside heel of your lead foot to give you the space to catch it cleanly on the upswing. That will helps you hit your driver consistently high and long.

Additional Reading: Those who can strike their 1-wood but lack consistency should read about our 20-driving tips for longer, straighter results.

Matt Stevens

Matt Callcott-Stevens started playing golf at the age of 4 when Rory Sabattini’s father put a 7-iron and putter in his hand. He has experienced all the highs and lows the game can throw at you and has now settled down as a professional golf writer. He holds a Postgraduate in Sports Marketing and has played golf for 28 years.

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The first time I tested the M4 driver was in 2018, shortly after its release.

As TaylorMade has launched several drivers since, I thought it would be fun to hit the range again and see how it compares to a newer model. Therefore, I have written a TaylorMade M4 driver review here to determine if it is still a force to be reckoned with.

After introducing you to the features and performance of this driver, I will assess how it compares to the manufacturer’s latest releases. In addition, the analysis will help you decide if the TaylorMade M4 driver is suited to your swing.

For readers looking for a quick summary, here are the highlights/lowlights:

Quick Overview of The TaylorMade M4 Driver

Features

Twist Face Technology

The first stand-out feature of the M4 driver is its new twist face technology. Well, it was fresh back in 2018. The revolutionary new face curvature for that time produced a corrective face angle to combat off-center strikes.

Therefore, striking the ball in the high toe increases the loft of the face. Conversely, if the clubface catches the ball off the low heel, it reduces the apex of your shot. This is done to produce a consistent spin on all drives.

Furthermore, helping you get your ball airborne, the twist face technology resists side spin on heel and toe mishits. As a result, you produce straighter shots for an improved fairway in regulation record.

Excess side spin off the club face causes hooks and slices, which is the fastest way to ruin your hole before it begins.

Speed Pocket

When we miss the center of the driver’s face, we reduce the coefficient of restitution (COR), which slows down our ball speed. The loss of velocity leads to a weaker launch and a loss of distance.

Fortunately, TaylorMade’s engineers employed Speed Pocket technology to boost speed on all shots. Therefore, you enjoy consistent ball flight and distance on all connections.

Speed pocket technology is effective when you catch the ball low off the face. It springs into action and accelerates your ball speed to produce optimal yardage. Without this technology, your driver delivers inadequate spin and velocity for adequate yardage.

Hammerhead Slot

A hammerhead slot is inserted into the driver’s sole to support the outer portions of the slot. That reduces the mass, encouraging a more flexible face through impact. This benefits you on off-center hits, where you need all the ball speed necessary to produce sufficient distance off the tee.

In addition, the increased flexibility of the TaylorMade M4 driver expands the sweet spot for maximum forgiveness. As a result, the wider sweet spot delivers ample ball speed across the face for consistent distance off the tee.

Geocoustic Technology

Geocoustic tech employs sole shaping techniques to deliver superior sound and feel at impact. Therefore, you enjoy the rewarding acoustics of your clubface, striking the ball on every tee shot.

Furthermore, TaylorMade added a recessed sole contour construction to the head, freeing up weight in the clubhead. That enabled the engineers to craft a larger flexible clubface with an enhanced sweet spot. As a result, it delivers maximum forgiveness.

Adjustable Hosel

The M4 driver features an adjustable hosel, enabling golfers to alter their loft by 2 degrees of additional or less loft. Plus, adjustments impact the angle of the clubface.

For example, strengthening the loft by 2 degrees can open your clubface up to 4 degrees. That sets your driver up to deliver a fade bias. Conversely, lowering the loft by 2 degrees closes the club face by 4 degrees. This positions the driver for a draw bias.

In addition, altering the loft impacts the level of backspin RPM you produce at impact. Weakening the loft by 2 degrees can boost your backspin by 400 RPM. That setup prompts a high launch, ideal for slower swingers.

On the contrary, strengthening the loft helps you deliver a low spin off the driver’s face for maximum distance.

To alter the loft, you need a wrench to help you loosen the screws on the sole. Rotate anti-clockwise to slacken the screws, and remove them. Then, slip the head of the shaft. Turn the hosel to achieve your desired loft.

You can follow the video below by Golfbidder for a visual representation of the procedure:

Lofts

TaylorMade crafts the M4 driver in three key loft settings. The lowest lofted design is 9.5-degrees, followed by a 10.5-degree construction. Finally, golfers with a slow driver swing speed should appreciate the 12-degree driver.

Shafts

The only stock shaft available on the M4 is the Fujikura Atmos Red 5. Fujikura constructed this shaft in stiff, regular, and senior flex. Therefore, they are designed for golfers who produce fast, average, and slow club head speed.

Performance

Price

As an older model driver, the M4 is now at a convenient price point for mid and high-handicappers. It has come down by $200 to $300 in price, making it far more attractive to the average golfer than new premium drivers from TaylorMade.

Feel and Sound

Geocoustic technology delivers a solid deafening sound at impact. Exactly the noise you expect to hear from your driver when you crush it out of the sweet spot. In addition, it offers a relatively soft feel as it drowns out vibrations on off-center strikes.

Spin

On average, I generate 2100 RPM of backspin with my driver. When I tested the M4, I averaged 100 mph less than that, clocking in at 2000 RPM. I am satisfied with this level, and it is what I expect to receive from my big stick.

Forgiveness

The M4 delivers exceptional all-around forgiveness, from accelerating ball speed on off-center strikes to minimizing side spin. This support helps you achieve optimal distance and accuracy.

Distance

TaylorMade built the M4 to accelerate ball speed and reduce spin on your drives. My average driving distance is 270-yards, and the M4 produced 274-yards in testing. Therefore, it creates slightly more distance than my regular driver.

What I Like About The TaylorMade M4

Sound

Off the clubface, the TaylorMade M4 produces a solid, explosive sound to warn your partners that a bomb is flying down the fairway. Geocoustic technology helped the engineers execute advanced sole shaping techniques. This means that the clubhead is crafted for optimal sound and feel at impact.

Forgiveness

Forgiveness is one of the crucial features of the TaylorMade M4 driver. The presence of a flexible clubface, enlarged sweet spot, and hammerhead slot ensures a forgiving driver.

Its flexible face springs into the ball at impact and accelerates velocity. This prompts a high launching, long flying ball, resulting in exceptional distance. Even when you strike the ball low off the face.

Furthermore, its face curvature construction beats off unwanted spin prompted by off-center strikes. This reduces the risk of you hooking or slicing your drive into trouble.

Low Spin

Low spin off the tee enables you to produce piercing ball flight and prompt optimal forward roll upon landing. When I create excess spin, I balloon my drives and lose distance. The ball shoots into the air and descends rapidly before coming to an abrupt halt.

The beauty of the M4 is that it contains an adjustable hosel. Therefore, you can continuously strengthen the loft of your driver to reduce backspin RPM.

Adjustable Hosel

By adding an adjustable hosel, TaylorMade allows you to tinker with the loft, angle, and your clubface lie. If you are generating excess backspin RPM you can strengthen your driver’s loft to reduce spin. Conversely, you can weaken the loft to encourage additional backspin RPM.

Moreover, the hosel alters the angle of the face. You can set your club up to induce a draw or a fade. Strengthen your loft on the adjustable hosel, and keep your clubface open and ready to prompt a fade shape.

Contrarily, weakening the loft closes the club face by up to 4 degrees, encouraging the club to promote a draw.

This feature is suited to mid and high handicappers still identifying the perfect composition for their swings.

What I Dislike About The TaylorMade M4

Shaft Options

There is little not to like about the TaylorMade M4 driver. It is forgiving, feels superb, and delivers optimal distance on all strikes. However, they are skint on stock shaft options. There is only one brand of stock shaft available.

I would like them to offer more stock shafts that cater to every swing speed and tempo.

Overall Rating and Thoughts

The TaylorMade M4 is an exceptional driver. Although it is a few years older than newer models from the equipment giant, it remains relevant. Like new TaylorMade drivers, the M4 is highly forgiving, reduces spin, and generates rapid ball speed.

Overall, it gives the average golfer everything we need off the tee; and it is at a fraction of its release price. If you are after a highly forgiving, long, and adjustable driver, you should consider the TaylorMade M4 driver.

Overall Rating: 95/100

Related Reading: Since they are a highly reputable manufacturer, TaylorMade’s golf clubs are not found in the bargain bin. However, if the price is everything to you, there are more affordable options. Find your ideal big stick among our 10 best drivers under $200.

Matt Stevens

Matt Callcott-Stevens started playing golf at the age of 4 when Rory Sabattini’s father put a 7-iron and putter in his hand. He has experienced all the highs and lows the game can throw at you and has now settled down as a professional golf writer. He holds a Postgraduate in Sports Marketing and has played golf for 28 years.

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This Callaway Rogue St driver review seeks to analyze the qualities of the Max design.

Out of the three options in the Callaway Rogue drivers series, the Max is built for the average golfer demanding accuracy, distance, and forgiveness.

The other two golf clubs suit fast swinging low-handicap players and inconsistent high handicappers. The Rogue ST Max LS is a low spin option and accelerates ball speed for maximum distance. Conversely, the Callaway Rogue ST Max D provides a draw bias that combats sidespin for straighter drives.

As the latest Callaway Driver, the Max range is a premium product. You can expect to fork out a pretty penny. However, if you are on a budget, you should review our top 10 drivers under $200.

For readers looking for a quick summary, here are the highlights/lowlights:

Quick Overview of The Callaway Rogue ST Driver

Tungsten Speed Cartridge

Engineers at Callaway employed a Tungsten Speed Cartridge which places 26 grams of tungsten weight in the driver’s head.

The cartridge increases the stability of the Callaway Rogue ST drivers to ensure the highest MOI head. MOI stands for moment of inertia, which represents the ability of a clubface to resist twisting during your swing. As a result, it encourages a square face to prompt a straight tee shot.

Furthermore, this stable driver works to maintain ball speed on off-center strikes. This provides exceptional forgiveness levels to the average golfer to keep you long and straight on the golf course.

Jailbreak Speed Frame

Jailbreak Speed Frame technology enhances the stability of your Callaway Driver, horizontally and torsionally. The aim of this structure is to quicken ball speed on all strikes. Therefore, the club maintains velocity on heel and toe mishits and contact low off the clubface.

In addition, this construction helps you reduce spin to boost distance results. Ultimately, Tungsten Speed Cartridge and a Jailbreak Speed Frame provide the best combination of distance, low spin, and forgiveness.

Titanium Unibody Construction

Callaway relied on a Titanium Unibody Construction to bolster stability and lower center of gravity (CG). These two features collaborate to produce explosive ball speed, a high MOI, and ball flight.

The deep and low CG helps golfers with average swing speed to consistently launch their golf ball into the air, leading to maximum carry distance. In addition, the high MOI profile resists twisting to remain square at contact. This leads to consistently straight shots for optimal accuracy.

Triaxial Carbon Crown And Sole

The engineers used a Triaxial Carbon Crown to reduce the total mass of the new Rogue ST drivers. This weight is then repositioned deep into the driver’s head, which enabled the team to lower the CG.

The low positioning of the CG encourages a high launch off the tee to ensure consistent carry and total distance.

Slight Draw Bias

The stock setup of the Rogue ST driver positions the head in a slight draw bias. This helps right-handed golfers combat left to right side spin on off-center strikes, leading to slices and a poor fairway in regulation record.

Although this helps serial slicers hit straighter shots, it can be detrimental to some golfers. The draw bias construction could worsen your results if you tend to hook your shots.

Adjustable Hosel

Despite the slight draw bias profile of the Rogue ST Max driver, it contains an adjustable hosel enabling you to alter the setup. The hosel lets you change the loft and lie of the clubface to achieve your desired launch and shot shape.

Weakening the loft of this driver encourages increased spin for a higher launching shot. However, keep in mind that an open clubface can cause you to generate right-to-left sidespin, prompting a fade.

Conversely, strengthening the loft of your golf club closes the face angle and encourages a low to neutral ball flight. Furthermore, the closed clubface of this driver sets you up to produce a draw.

Lofts

Callaway offers the Rogue ST Max driver in 3 stock loft options. The strongest lofted construction is 9 degrees, while 10.5-degrees works for the average golfer.

Lastly, a 12-degree loft design is the weakest option for slow-swinging golfers.

Faster swingers should consider the strong lofted 9-degree driver, which you can strengthen or weaken. You can reduce the loft on this driver to 8 degrees for a lower launch and 11 degrees for a higher flight.

In addition, the 10.5-degree driver can adjust to 9.5 and 12.5-degrees. Finally, the weaker 12-degree club strengthens up to 11 degrees and weakens to as much as 14 degrees.

Shafts

The Rogue ST Max driver offers 4 stock shaft options to promote an optimal launch for consistent distance and accuracy. Mitsubishi dominates the shaft offering with three different ranges.

Fast and medium driver swing speeds should produce their desired ball flight with the Tensei AV Blue 55 and 65 graphite shafts. Both these options are crafted in regular and stiff flex. Regular flex works for average swing speeds, while stiff flex performs for faster swingers.

Moreover, the Tensei AV White 65 graphite shaft is set up for fast and super faster swing speeds. These shafts are offered in stiff and extra stiff flex.

The final option is the Fujikura Ventus Blue 5 and 6 shaft, which works for fast and moderate swing speeds. These shafts are constructed in regular, stiff, and extra stiff flex. Therefore, they are built for moderate, fast, and super fast clubhead speeds.

Ultimately, the stock shafts for the Rogue ST Max driver are ideal for mid, fast, and super fast golf swings. They are not designed to perform for slower swingers.

What I Like About The Callaway Rogue ST Max

Consistent Ball Speed

The stand-out feature for me was the consistency of my ball speed on shots out the middle and off-center. My average ball speed hovers around 142 mph, which is my benchmark for all driver tests.

The Callaway Rogue ST Max performed optimally in this area during the test. The lowest ball velocity that I generated was 140.3 mph, slightly off-center to the right. Otherwise, the remaining swings yielded maximum speed for my game.

Thanks to the consistent ball speed, I generated optimal distance, which is why I appreciate this asset.

Low Spin

When low spin and explosive ball speed partner, they work to produce maximum yardage in your long game. The Jailbreak Speed Frame in this driver bolsters the stability of the clubhead and face at impact. This keeps your clubface square at impact to impart extreme ball velocity while restricting backspin.

My typical backspin rpm on drives ranges from 2200 to 2300, and the Rogue ST Max delivered the goods. My average was 2275 rpm during the tests, putting me exactly where I needed to be.

Straight Flight

The Tungsten Speed Cartridge and slight draw bias encourage straight ball flight for added accuracy. The former enhances MOI to reduce twisting and promote a square clubface at impact.

In addition, the slight draw bias combats side spin, which induces slices to keep you on the fairway.

What I Dislike About The Callaway Rogue ST

Price

The biggest turn-off of the Rogue ST is its premium price. It carries a recommended retail price of $549.99, which is excessive for the average golfer. However, there is no disrespect to Callaway because their engineers have created a gem of a product.

Appearance

The Tungsten Speed Cartridge sticks out from the back of the crown at address, which is off-putting. When I looked at it the first time, I was reminded of the horrors bestowed upon my eyes by the Nike Sasquatch. Other than this issue, the rest of the club is clean and appealing.

The Wrench Is Not Included

You generally need to acquire the wrench to adjust the hosel separately. This is annoying and adds to the cost of an already expensive item. When you are forking out a premium for a golf club, the least you could expect is to receive a complementary wrench.

Overall Rating and Thoughts

Overall, our Callaway Rogue ST driver review highlights an impressive creation that helps you maximize your distance without relinquishing forgiveness. The Tungsten Speed Cartridge escalates the driver’s MOI and accelerates ball speed on mishits. Together they produce consistent distance and accurate flight for an improved fairway in regulation record.

Furthermore, the presence of a Jailbreak Speed Frame increases the zone on your clubface that accelerates ball speed. Plus, it restricts backspin rpm encouraging additional yards off the tee.

The lower CG positioning is set up to help you launch your drives higher and longer. Finally, an adjustable hosel allows you to set up for your preferred ball flight. Given its qualities, it makes an ideal driver for mid-handicappers.

I am suitably impressed with the performance features of the Callaway Rogue ST driver and applaud their engineers. However, the excessively high price point rules it out for the average golfer, especially with a looming recession. Therefore, I suggest an older, affordable version such as the Epic Speed or Max.

If money is not an issue, then I won’t stand in your way. You can take a closer look at the Callaway Rogue ST driver here.

Matt Stevens

Matt Callcott-Stevens started playing golf at the age of 4 when Rory Sabattini’s father put a 7-iron and putter in his hand. He has experienced all the highs and lows the game can throw at you and has now settled down as a professional golf writer. He holds a Postgraduate in Sports Marketing and has played golf for 28 years.

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